Advertisement 1

Hum: I enjoyed Nagi Sushi, which continues the tasty legacy of C'est Japon à Suisha

The chef-owner of the Orléans eatery worked for three decades at downtown Ottawa's pioneering sushi restaurant.

Get the latest from Peter Hum straight to your inbox

Article content

Nagi Sushi

2208 St. Joseph Blvd., Unit 104, 613-830-9770, nagisushi.ca

Chairs lined up along a bar with lights hanging overhead
The interior of Nagi Sushi in Orléans. Photo by Peter Hum /POSTMEDIA

Open: Tuesday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 5 to 9 p.m., closed Sunday, Monday

Prices: à la carte sushi $4.50 to $23, sushi platters $45 to $120

Access: no steps to the front door or washrooms


Ottawa’s long-time and eagle-eyed sushi lovers might be able to spot some familiar trappings at Nagi Sushi, which opened almost six months ago in Orléans.

Advertisement 2
Story continues below
Article content

Its two dozen or so chairs were used for decades at C’est Japon à Suisha. That Slater Street restaurant helped introduce sushi in Ottawa in the early 1980s, and it closed in the summer of 2023 to make way for a condo development. Nagi’s tables are not quite as old, but they, too, came from Suisha. So did the lanterns now hanging above Nagi’s new, blonde, five-seat sushi counter.

But aside from its basic furnishings, Nagi’s biggest connection to Suisha is its chef-owner, Moriyuki Hiroha. The 53-year-old made sushi at Suisha for over 30 years, beginning shortly after he came to Canada from Gunma Prefecture in central Japan. After Suisha closed, Hiroha scoured Ottawa for a place where he could open his own place. He settled on the Orléans strip mall location that Nagi calls home, which previously was a South Asian eatery.

An oblong plate of sliced fish.
Assorted sushi (maguro, torched salmon and unagi) at Nagi Sushi in Orléans. Photo by Peter Hum /POSTMEDIA

Since Nagi opened in March, its clientele has been evenly split between Orléans folks and Suisha regulars, Hiroha says. After two dinners there this summer, I certainly get why foodies across Ottawa would travel to the city’s eastern suburb to get their raw-fish fix.

Advertisement 3
Story continues below
Article content

The sashimi, sushi and rolls that I tried here all starred fish that was impeccably fresh, expertly cut and generously portioned. Here, the rice, which one might take for granted at other restaurants before encountering some markedly too-cold or overcooked stuff elsewhere, was of the proper texture and temperature.

At my first visit, a friend and I sampled à la carte sushi including maguro (red tuna), hamachi (yellowtail amberjack), unagi (grilled freshwater eel), torched salmon and spicy scallop. We were struck by their luxurious, near-melting softness and clarity of flavour.

At my second visit, three of us sat at the counter and splurged on a $120 combination dinner that involves waves of sashimi, sushi and maki chosen by chef Hiroha, who worked silently in front of us.

Again, the quality of what were served was uniformly high, with more of that sumptuous salmon and hamachi and chunks of sweet Hokkaido scallop as standouts, plus mackerel, octopus and squid as more uncommon treats.

Someone sits at a sushi counter wearing a black chef hat and black chef coat.
Moriyuki Hiroha, owner and sushi chef of Nagi Sushi. Photo by Tony Caldwell /POSTMEDIA

When I spoke to Hiroha this week, he explained that he has maintained connections with suppliers he had at Suisha. He brings in high-quality fish, in some cases from Japan, as often as four times a week. His menu also lists the occasional availability of seasonal items including uni (sea urchin), toro (fatty tuna) and potently sweet botan shrimp.

Advertisement 4
Story continues below
Article content

This is just a hunch, but I’d bet that Ottawa’s surprisingly numerous all-you-can-eat sushi restaurants, and at least some other sushi eateries that exercise portion control, can’t match Nagi when it comes to having a deluxe supply of fish.

Perhaps the only thing I can hold against Nagi is that it serves fake crab rather than the real thing. But at least the crab-flavoured fish product is truthfully described as “imitation crab” on Nagi’s menu. On our first visit, when Nagi was especially busy, we received complimentary “imitation crab” salads to make amends for the slight delay in service.

I’ve also had grilled fish at Nagi, including two-weekend specials advertised on the restaurant’s chalkboard, yellowtail collar ($21) and kinmedai, aka golden eye snapper ($18). These items were delicacies that rewarded the manual labour needed to extract toothsome flesh from the clutches of nearby bones. The easier-to-eat yellowtail collar was our preference of those specials.

A platter of sashimi
Chef’s choice sashimi at Nagi Sushi. Photo by Peter Hum /POSTMEDIA

I should have tried the tempura, I now realize. Hiroha told me this week that the chef in the kitchen, another Suisha alumnus, is a “tempura specialist.”

Advertisement 5
Story continues below
Article content

Desserts here — daifuku, a notoriously chewy rice cake with a sweet filling, plus ice cream ($10) and starchy “hoku hoku” sweet potato plus ice cream ($7) — were simple and appealing.

Nagi is still waiting for its liquor licence. Meanwhile, it serves imported Japanese non-alcoholic drinks including yuzu gin and tonic ($10), plum wine ($8) and ume spritzer ($8) that seemed like worthy imitations.

There are trendier, flashier spots for sushi in Ottawa, including the recently opened Jfuse Aburi & Bar on Main Street. It did the trick for me. But Nagi is true to its name, which in Japanese means “calm” or “tranquil.”

Hiroha means for his restaurant to be a serene spot to enjoy superior sushi, sheltered from the turbulent waters of everyday life. I think he’s succeeded.

phum@postmedia.com

Want to stay in the know about what’s happening in Ottawa??Sign up for the?Ottawa Citizen’s arts and life newsletter — Ottawa, Out of Office?— our weekly guide to eating, listening, reading, watching, playing, hanging, learning and living well in the capital.

Recommended from Editorial
  1. Deep-fried papaya salad with shrimp at Charm Thai on Preston Street.
    Hum: At Charm Thai Cuisine, the deep-fried specials were tops
  2. The view from the second floor.
    Hum: Med Supper Club is fun, if you have money to burn

Article content
Comments
You must be logged in to join the discussion or read more comments.
Join the Conversation

Postmedia is committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion. Please keep comments relevant and respectful. Comments may take up to an hour to appear on the site. You will receive an email if there is a reply to your comment, an update to a thread you follow or if a user you follow comments. Visit our Community Guidelines for more information.

Latest National Stories
    universo-virtual.com
    buytrendz.net
    thisforall.net
    benchpressgains.com
    qthzb.com
    mindhunter9.com
    dwjqp1.com
    secure-signup.net
    ahaayy.com
    soxtry.com
    tressesindia.com
    puresybian.com
    krpano-chs.com
    cre8workshop.com
    hdkino.org
    peixun021.com
    qz786.com
    utahperformingartscenter.org
    maw-pr.com
    zaaksen.com
    ypxsptbfd7.com
    worldqrmconference.com
    shangyuwh.com
    eejssdfsdfdfjsd.com
    playminecraftfreeonline.com
    trekvietnamtour.com
    your-business-articles.com
    essaywritingservice10.com
    hindusamaaj.com
    joggingvideo.com
    wandercoups.com
    onlinenewsofindia.com
    worldgraphic-team.com
    bnsrz.com
    wormblaster.net
    tongchengchuyange0004.com
    internetknowing.com
    breachurch.com
    peachesnginburlesque.com
    dataarchitectoo.com
    clientfunnelformula.com
    30pps.com
    cherylroll.com
    ks2252.com
    webmanicura.com
    osostore.com
    softsmob.com
    sofietsshotel.com
    facetorch.com
    nylawyerreview.com
    apapromotions.com
    shareparelli.com
    goeaglepointe.com
    thegreenmanpubphuket.com
    karotorossian.com
    publicsensor.com
    taiwandefence.com
    epcsur.com
    odskc.com
    inzziln.info
    leaiiln.info
    cq-oa.com
    dqtianshun.com
    southstills.com
    tvtv98.com
    thewellington-hotel.com
    bccaipiao.com
    colectoresindustrialesgs.com
    shenanddcg.com
    capriartfilmfestival.com
    replicabreitlingsale.com
    thaiamarinnewtoncorner.com
    gkmcww.com
    mbnkbj.com
    andrewbrennandesign.com
    cod54.com
    luobinzhang.com
    bartoysdirect.com
    taquerialoscompadresdc.com
    aaoodln.info
    amcckln.info
    drvrnln.info
    dwabmln.info
    fcsjoln.info
    hlonxln.info
    kcmeiln.info
    kplrrln.info
    fatcatoons.com
    91guoys.com
    signupforfreehosting.com
    faithfirst.net
    zjyc28.com
    tongchengjinyeyouyue0004.com
    nhuan6.com
    oldgardensflowers.com
    lightupthefloor.com
    bahamamamas-stjohns.com
    ly2818.com
    905onthebay.com
    fonemenu.com
    notanothermovie.com
    ukrainehighclassescort.com
    meincmagazine.com
    av-5858.com
    yallerdawg.com
    donkeythemovie.com
    corporatehospitalitygroup.com
    boboyy88.com
    miteinander-lernen.com
    dannayconsulting.com
    officialtomsshoesoutletstore.com
    forsale-amoxil-amoxicillin.net
    generictadalafil-canada.net
    guitarlessonseastlondon.com
    lesliesrestaurants.com
    mattyno9.com
    nri-homeloans.com
    rtgvisas-qatar.com
    salbutamolventolinonline.net
    sportsinjuries.info
    topsedu.xyz
    xmxm7.com
    x332.xyz
    sportstrainingblog.com
    autopartspares.com
    readguy.net
    soniasegreto.com
    bobbygdavis.com
    wedsna.com
    rgkntk.com
    bkkmarketplace.com
    zxqcwx.com
    breakupprogram.com
    boxcardc.com
    unblockyoutubeindonesia.com
    fabulousbookmark.com
    beat-the.com
    guatemala-sailfishing-vacations-charters.com
    magie-marketing.com
    kingstonliteracy.com
    guitaraffinity.com
    eurelookinggoodapparel.com
    howtolosecheekfat.net
    marioncma.org
    oliviadavismusic.com
    shantelcampbellrealestate.com
    shopleborn13.com
    topindiafree.com
    v-visitors.net
    qazwsxedcokmijn.com
    parabis.net
    terriesandelin.com
    luxuryhomme.com
    studyexpanse.com
    ronoom.com
    djjky.com
    053hh.com
    originbluei.com
    baucishotel.com
    33kkn.com
    intrinsiqresearch.com
    mariaescort-kiev.com
    mymaguk.com
    sponsored4u.com
    crimsonclass.com
    bataillenavale.com
    searchtile.com
    ze-stribrnych-struh.com
    zenithalhype.com
    modalpkv.com
    bouisset-lafforgue.com
    useupload.com
    37r.net
    autoankauf-muenster.com
    bantinbongda.net
    bilgius.com
    brabustermagazine.com
    indigrow.org
    miicrosofts.net
    mysmiletravel.com
    selinasims.com
    spellcubesapp.com
    usa-faction.com
    snn01.com
    hope-kelley.com
    bancodeprofissionais.com
    zjccp99.com
    liturgycreator.com
    weedsmj.com
    majorelenco.com
    colcollect.com
    androidnews-jp.com
    hypoallergenicdogsnames.com
    dailyupdatez.com
    foodphotographyreviews.com
    cricutcom-setup.com
    chprowebdesign.com
    katyrealty-kanepa.com
    tasramar.com
    bilgipinari.org
    four-am.com
    indiarepublicday.com
    inquick-enbooks.com
    iracmpi.com
    kakaschoenen.com
    lsm99flash.com
    nana1255.com
    ngen-niagara.com
    technwzs.com
    virtualonlinecasino1345.com
    wallpapertop.net
    nova-click.com
    abeautifulcrazylife.com
    diggmobile.com
    denochemexicana.com
    eventhalfkg.com
    medcon-taiwan.com
    life-himawari.com
    myriamshomes.com
    nightmarevue.com
    allstarsru.com
    bestofthebuckeyestate.com
    bestofthefirststate.com
    bestwireless7.com
    declarationintermittent.com
    findhereall.com
    jingyou888.com
    lsm99deal.com
    lsm99galaxy.com
    moozatech.com
    nuagh.com
    patliyo.com
    philomenamagikz.net
    rckouba.net
    saturnunipessoallda.com
    tallahasseefrolics.com
    thematurehardcore.net
    totalenvironment-inthatquietearth.com
    velislavakaymakanova.com
    vermontenergetic.com
    sizam-design.com
    kakakpintar.com
    begorgeouslady.com
    1800birks4u.com
    2wheelstogo.com
    6strip4you.com
    bigdata-world.net
    emailandco.net
    gacapal.com
    jharpost.com
    krishnaastro.com
    lsm99credit.com
    mascalzonicampani.com
    sitemapxml.org
    thecityslums.net
    topagh.com
    flairnetwebdesign.com
    bangkaeair.com
    beneventocoupon.com
    noternet.org
    oqtive.com
    smilebrightrx.com
    decollage-etiquette.com
    1millionbestdownloads.com
    7658.info
    bidbass.com
    devlopworldtech.com
    digitalmarketingrajkot.com
    fluginfo.net
    naqlafshk.com
    passion-decouverte.com
    playsirius.com
    spacceleratorintl.com
    stikyballs.com
    top10way.com
    yokidsyogurt.com
    zszyhl.com
    16firthcrescent.com
    abogadolaboralistamd.com
    apk2wap.com
    aromacremeria.com
    banparacard.com
    bosmanraws.com
    businessproviderblog.com
    caltonosa.com
    calvaryrevivalchurch.org
    chastenedsoulwithabrokenheart.com
    cheminotsgardcevennes.com
    cooksspot.com
    cqxzpt.com
    deesywig.com
    deltacartoonmaps.com
    despixelsetdeshommes.com
    duocoracaobrasileiro.com
    fareshopbd.com
    goodpainspills.com
    kobisitecdn.com
    makaigoods.com
    mgs1454.com
    piccadillyresidences.com
    radiolaondafresca.com
    rubendorf.com
    searchengineimprov.com
    sellmyhrvahome.com
    shugahouseessentials.com
    sonihullquad.com
    subtractkilos.com
    valeriekelmansky.com
    vipasdigitalmarketing.com
    voolivrerj.com
    zeelonggroup.com
    1015southrockhill.com
    10x10b.com
    111-online-casinos.com
    191cb.com
    3665arpentunitd.com
    aitesonics.com
    bag-shokunin.com
    brightotech.com
    communication-digitale-services.com
    covoakland.org
    dariaprimapack.com
    freefortniteaccountss.com
    gatebizglobal.com
    global1entertainmentnews.com
    greatytene.com
    hiroshiwakita.com
    iktodaypk.com
    jahatsakong.com
    meadowbrookgolfgroup.com
    newsbharati.net
    platinumstudiosdesign.com
    slotxogamesplay.com
    strikestaruk.com
    trucosdefortnite.com
    ufabetrune.com
    weddedtowhitmore.com
    12940brycecanyonunitb.com
    1311dietrichoaks.com
    2monarchtraceunit303.com
    601legendhill.com
    850elaine.com
    adieusolasomade.com
    andora-ke.com
    bestslotxogames.com
    cannagomcallen.com
    endlesslyhot.com
    iestpjva.com
    ouqprint.com
    pwmaplefest.com
    qtylmr.com
    rb88betting.com
    buscadogues.com
    1007macfm.com
    born-wild.com
    growthinvests.com
    promocode-casino.com
    proyectogalgoargentina.com
    wbthompson-art.com
    whitemountainwheels.com
    7thavehvl.com
    developmethis.com
    funkydogbowties.com
    travelodgegrandjunction.com
    gao-town.com
    globalmarketsuite.com
    blogshippo.com
    hdbka.com
    proboards67.com
    outletonline-michaelkors.com
    kalkis-research.com
    thuthuatit.net
    buckcash.com
    hollistercanada.com
    docterror.com
    asadart.com
    vmayke.org
    erwincomputers.com
    dirimart.org
    okkii.com
    loteriasdecehegin.com
    mountanalog.com
    healingtaobritain.com
    ttxmonitor.com
    bamthemes.com
    nwordpress.com
    11bolabonanza.com
    avgo.top